After packing our gear into both cars (which went smoother and took less time than we anticipated) we then drove down to the Ferry Terminal arriving just over 2 hrs early.
While we were waiting for the coffee Trev went to check us all in and was told that they had 2 cancellations so if we were able to get on board right then and there, we could go on the 1230 ferry instead of waiting til 3PM – bonus!
We quickly jumped on board and Dave and I drove the cars on. In no time at all, we were off to KI.
The ride over to Kangaroo Island was a bit rough but we went upstairs to the outside deck for a better view.
Leaving the mainland behind, for Kangaroo Island
The sun came out and KI was clearly in view. We were all excited for what the next few days would bring!
Kangaroo Island is about the size of Bali and is home to just over 4700 people. It is a very fertile island with many freshwater creeks and lagoons and rolling pastures.
Many species of native wildlife including koalas, echidnas and of course kangaroos make KI their home.
The koala population was very large prior to the bushfires in 2020, but the loss of the vast majority of the population, which was free of chlamydia which plagues the mainland population, is devastating.
There is also a lot of marine life including penguins, Australian sea lions and New Zealand fur seals as well as a myriad of fish and sharks.
We disembarked the ferry and drove out from Penneshaw towards Emu Bay the place for our first 3 nights.
We arrived at our home for the next 3 days ‘Seas the Day’ a great house with wonderful views over Emu Bay.
The bay itself was large with a long, curved beach of white sand and again more beautiful blue water.
The house itself was spacious and comfortably furnished. Beryl and I were allocated the main bedroom with ensuite out of respect for their elders.
Gordie and Kerry got the other double bed and due to the fact they were ‘family’ Trev, Clare, Rose and Dave shared the kids room with 2 double bunks.
After an interesting night’s sleep, we got ready for our first full day on the island. The plan was to see the northwest area which included lunch at the Enchanted Fig Tree which we had pre-booked.
We drove out in a westerly direction and soon were on dirt roads passing through sheep farms, forestry and rolling hills. The island did look a bit dry with some empty lakes, and the evidence of the 2020 bushfires which devastated the island was still obvious.
Our first destination was Stokes Bay – a potential surfing area so Gordie and Trev were hopeful. We had all dressed in our finest for the 1215pm lunch at the Enchanted Fig Tree but Trev and Gordie had worn boardshorts in the hope of a quick pre-lunch surf.
We arrived at what was marked on the map as Stokes Beach to be confronted by a rocky beach with no waves – nothing like the pics on the internet. Fortunately, there was a sign that indicated there was a beach area to our right – Trev went and inspected and sure enough there was a small track through some large rocks that lead to a beautiful beach.
Stokes Beach
The surf was a bit small however, but we enjoyed a walk along the beach, a paddle, and some photo ops. The beach again had fine white sand and some interesting rock formations at either end.
As the girls walked back through the crack in the rocks it was very reminiscent of ‘Picnic at Hanging Rock’ – disappearing amongst the rocks never to be seen again.
Our next destination was Snelling Beach, which was the next possible surfing location, so we continued on. It also happened to be the location of the Enchanted Fig Tree.
The Enchanted Fig Tree is a 120-year-old fig tree planted as a food source for the first settlers of KI. The tree’s huge canopy and gnarled limbs have grown in such a way as to create natural ‘rooms’ which have been turned into a unique dining experience location near Snelling Beach. Our booking was for 1230 but we were asked to be there by 1215 sharp, so we were keen to keep an eye on the time so as not to miss any of this unique experience.
Snelling beach was stunning – turquoise blue water, white sand but again the swell was small.
There was a group of vintage Combies lined up on the beach itself – Gordie of course was drawn straight to them and had a great chat – they were a group doing a fundraiser for KI bushfire recovery and the family that had lost 2 members during the fires.
After dragging Gordie away, we left the beach and went across to the Enchanted Fig Tree – slightly early so we had a look around the grounds at the old shearers shed…and Gordie and Trev did the quick-change routine to fit in with the dress code.
We walked down to the large fig tree and were greeted by a waitress who welcomed us with a refreshing cocktail of KI gin, fig syrup, peppercorn leaves and other delights as well as a fig canape. The obligatory group photo at the entrance to the fig tree and we were then ushered in by our waitress to our table inside the fig tree canopy.
Thankfully it was a beautiful day. The sunlight filtered in through the large translucent green leaves, small birds flitted amongst the branches and the tree was heavy with fruit.
The tables were set in amongst different areas of the tree – it was semiprivate, relaxing and we were able to hear each other talk – unlike most restaurants that are so noisy. Background music floated through the air and fairy lights shone subtly among the branches – truly an enchanting experience.
The dining “room” is actually in the fig trees to the left of the building
The set menu was amazing – 2 starters, an entrée, main and dessert all beautify prepared, presented, and tasty beyond belief! Fresh local produce was used, and it was difficult to select which part was the best – but possibly Berry Bombe Alaska with a berry ice-cream centre, chocolate coating then covered with a soft meringue topped off with a berry compote and fig coulis – magnificent.
Kerry had noticed that there were a lot of ripe figs near the toilets and so surreptitiously she and Gordon went to the loo (several times) and gleaned a fig or two. I spoke to the waitress, leading the conversation around to the fact that there were a lot of ripe figs, to which the waitress replied, ‘take as many as you want’. Honesty works well and so then everyone helped themselves to a few figs to take home.
We left the restaurant after having such an enjoyable experience and returned to the beach to check for waves – the swell was now smaller, so we decided to head for home and a swim at Emu Bay instead.
On the way home we saw a magnificent wedge tailed eagle and managed to snap a pic. After such an indulgent lunch we opted for cheese, fruit, and bikkies for dinner.
We had a big day planned hoping to tour the southwest area of the island and as we left. As I was packing the esky into the car, I noticed that the bolt holding on my tow hitch, has almost rattled loose. Got the big spanner out and quickly secured it.
Seal Bay was the first destination of the day – a whole bay and beach area dedicated to a colony of Australian sea lions. Female Australian sea lions always return to their place of birth which is why this area is a permanent home for the colony. The gestational period of the sea lions is 18 months, and the pups are born up in the sandy hollows or rocky outcrops away from the beach.
Seal Beach is a must see on the island
The sea lions spend 2-3 days out to sea at a time hunting for food up to 100kms south of KI and then return and spend 2-3 days recuperating and sleeping on the beach and in the dunes as they are exhausted from the continual swimming and feeding. There are around 1000 permanent resident sea lions at Seal Bay in KI.
We did a beach tour and were able to get up close and personal with these beautiful creatures. The views up and down the coast from the lookout were spectacular.
On leaving Seal Bay we drove out onto the main sealed highway and, lo and behold, a rock flew up and chipped the Pearl’s windscreen – Dave was NOT impressed. Rosie was swift to start googling stone chip windscreen repairers.
We arrived at the famous Vivonne Bay – apparently great for surfing and sure enough there was a wave or two. The beach was again beautiful but the beauty was somewhat marred by the large amount of seaweed covering the silky white sand.
Gordie and Trev stayed for a surf while we went to get come coffee and lunch. We had great burgers at the Vivonne Bay General Store Take-away.
Time was marching on and so we grabbed takeaway burgers for Trev and Gordie and went back to pick them up. It took a while to pry Gordie out of the surf, but Kerry eventually succeeded, and we were back on the road towards Flinders Chase National Park and the Remarkable Rocks.
It was about 50mins drive to the Remarkable Rocks, but it was worth it – they were simply spectacular. The rocks are domed inselbergs ‘islands of rock’ – protrusions of eroded granite formed over a lengthy time period. Sea spray enters crevices of rock, then drying and the salt expands producing cracking, as well as wind and rain weathering the rocks, producing the unusual formations.
Next stop was the Admiral’s Arch near Cape du Couedic Lighthouse. We walked down the boardwalk looking at the wild remote coastal area on the southwestern tip of KI and marvelling at the rugged beauty of it. The area teems with wildlife – 85% of South Australia’s marine flora and fauna are found nowhere else in the world.
Out on the edge of the continental shelf here are huge submarine canyons bigger than the Grand Canyon. They are channels for the currents that bring up cold nutrient rich water that wells up from the deep-sea floor, which attracts marine life in large numbers.
Below the cliffs was a colony of New Zealand fur seals frolicking in the rock pools. They are larger and darker than the Australian sea lions we had seen earlier. We could see a rockpool with pink water – apparently the water turns this colour when concentrated seal poo mixes with saltwater.
Around the corner at the base of the cliff was the Admiral’s Arch, a natural rock arch formed under the cliff. The wild seas and wind had eroded the hole over many years to become a spectacular archway.
By this time it was quite late in the day, and we had an hour and a half drive back to Emu Bay so we decided to give Cape Borda Lighthouse a miss and make a beeline for home.
Back at Emu Bay, I saw an echidna just strolling across the park and it was completely unperturbed by our interest. The day had been very full, taking in the natural wonders of God’s creation found on KI.
Sunrise was spectacular as we woke to our last morning at Seas the Day. We left Emu Bay having really enjoyed our time there.